Eidos Creative Director Simon Spurr has just 72 hours in Capri.
“It’s a quick trip; I just arrived this afternoon,” Spurr says over the phone in his British lilt. The designer is making a pit stop on the Italian island en route to his New York home, having spent the previous week in Milan tending to back-to-back showroom appointments. “I’m here for three nights, then I have to go back to New York to start season three, so it’s a very short summer vacation for me.”
To be fair, Spurr has just come off a yearlong quasi-holiday. In 2006, the men’s designer launched his eponymous label, when the now-expansive menswear market was still beginning to unfurl. His rise was meteoric, with fashion folk deeming Spurr some sort of Savile Row savant, a menswear tailor par excellence who developed his own strain of sharp, smart suiting. But in 2012, a few days after he was nominated for a Council of Fashion Designers of America award, Spurr abruptly announced he was stepping away from the line that bore his name after a contentious relationship with his business partner. The void was felt almost immediately.Now, after his hiatus, Spurr has returned as the recently installed Creative Director of Italian heritage brand Eidos. His first collection, for Fall 2018, hit the floors of Barneys New York in August.
“It felt fantastic to design again,” Spurr says. “I’ve still got a lot to say after I left my namesake brand.” He was given carte blanche at Eidos, the results of which are spectacular: Spurr’s vision crafted out of Italy’s finest fabrications and leathers.
Stepping away, not only from his eponymous label but from the fashion industry as a whole, proved beneficial for Spurr, who spent much of his sabbatical pursuing other art forms such as furniture design and architecture. “The title of this collection is Otium, which is the Latin word for detaching from your everyday working environment in pursuit of something else intellectual and creatively freeing,” he explains. “That’s what I was doing for years—freeing my brain.” Having worked on everything from sculpture to floor lamps, Spurr says giving his eye a break from the norm allowed him to return to the fashion world with a fresh perspective.That freshness has very much informed this first collection for Eidos—but Spurr’s eye has sharpened, not shifted. The fall collection is thoughtful and very much grounded in the menswear codes that garnered Spurr a cult following in the first place. “There’s always an underlying DNA to my work, whether it’s fashion or non-fashion products, that I can’t get away from—that I don’t want to get away from. That’s who I am,” he says.
Spurr made his name on expertly executed tailoring tinged with a hint of London’s Swinging Sixties, creating what could be described as a polished Brit rocker aesthetic. The fusion of Spurr’s eye and Eidos’s Italian craftsmanship can be seen in a pair of sleek, stone-blue trousers with a chunky silver chain festooned on the hip. Other elements that scream Spurr are luxe sportswear and playful takes on the double-breasted suit jacket with iterations done in equally sumptuous mohair and soft leather. “This season, we tried to set the tone for what was going to come,” Spurr explains. If this collection is any indication, as with anything Spurr touches, Eidos has found its perfect fit.