Saturday, June 22, was a weekend filled with a lot of firsts for Sies Marjan designer Sander Lak. Not only was it the New York–based brand’s first time showing in the City of Light, but it was also the debut of a fully realized menswear collection. Lak had released capsules of the sort previously, and he was originally trained as a menswear designer at Central Saint Martins, but this weekend marked an exciting new chapter for the luxury label with evident harmonies existing between all Sies Marjan collections.

“We start working on the men’s collection at the same time as the women’s collection, so there is a lot of overlap when it comes to fabrics, yarns, and colors and an overarching mood,” Lak explained. “I don’t think differently for the men’s and the women’s collections during the creative process, but as each takes shape and the logistics kick in there of course becomes a clear separation. The way that fabrics fall, tailor, or drape in a men’s garment has a completely different feel than that of a women’s garment, but overall the design approach is pretty much the same.”

Though it was his first time appearing on the European men’s Fashion Week schedule, the Spring 2020 collection stayed true to the brand’s aesthetic with a rich mix of colors, textures, intricate coordinates, and silk separates. As for the show’s approach, Lak always prefers to let that aspect fall into place naturally. “I let the collection and the choices I’m making along the way decide where it’s all going. At a certain point I start to see why I’m choosing things or gravitating towards certain elements, and then we emphasize it so an overall message is clear.”

The designer also showcased a Fall 2019 capsule on the runway that is already available on Barneys.com. “I think it’s important to give access to certain things immediately and then save others so that people can see them and start desiring them beforehand. Customers want a bit of both,” he told us. Scroll on for backstage highlights from the premiere show, and then shop the latest from Sies Marjan.

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