Top artist Gucci Westman is no stranger to the fashion week circuit—she’s been collaborating with designers in creating complementing beauty looks season after season. More recently, she’s been able to incorporate her own cosmetics line into her process, and this week Westman Atelier partnered with Brock for their SS20 collection. We went backstage to talk with Westman about her inspiration and just how to achieve the “natural, lived in look,” that enhanced the natural beauty of the Brock models on the runway.

The Window: Tell us how you approach collaborating with a designer for runway beauty.
Gucci Westman:
It really depends on the designer and how precise they are about the woman they want to communicate. Speaking with the designer and the stylist helps a lot, to understand their vision.

What are some considerations when doing makeup for a runway show?
You have to have a really strong team! You want to feel organized and calm. I try to bear in mind that when there are a lot of models to do and little time, it helps to minimize the steps for the makeup artists for key efficiency without loosing the essence.

How did you work with Brock to create a look?
I spoke with the designers Kris and Laura and stylist Vanessa Traina about the clothes first. We agreed that we wanted the look to be a stronger woman opposed to being too romantic. We didn’t want the look to match the clothing, as the models should have their own personalities shine through.

What is the inspiration for Brock’s SS20 beauty?
It’s a little bit of a modern girl mixed with a Peter Lindbergh girl. It’s about the individual woman and her own beauty, and not masking that so overall it feels easy and wearable. The cool factor comes from the modern girl.

How can a similar look be recreated off the runway?
First, warm up your skin Super Loaded Tinted Highlight in Peau de Soleil with the Blender Brush to frame the face. Then use the Lit Up Highlight Stick on the areas where the light naturally catches: the top of your cheekbones, the inner corners of the eyes, and on top of the cupid’s bow. Touch up any areas with a little bit of Vital Skin Foundation where needed, like under the eyes. Layering Baby Cheeks in Poppet and Couchette on the lips gives a really pretty, natural flushed look. For the brows, fill them in and brush them up for a strong brow. If you’re feeling a bit playful, a little bit of Lit Up Highlight Stick brushed through brows makes them look super shiny!

Since you’ve just launched your mascara, we want to know: What are common mascara ‘mistakes’ people make?
Good question! Any greasy or oily product on your eyelids will cause mascara to transfer. When you go over mascara when it’s already dry, it can make the lashes clumpy. I believe in a proficient application instead of quick and rushed one. Refined and beautiful lashes just take an extra second!

Brock Designer Laura Vassar looks on.

Westman at work.

The final natural, glowy look.