Eva Zuckerman, the jewelry designer behind Eva Fehren, creates pieces that are at once edgy and refined, tough and delicate, and as original as they are wearable (which is to say, highly).
The designer also professes to be “obsessed with gold.” Only fitting then, that we joined forces with the kind folks at Love Gold for an afternoon visit to Zuckerman’s Brooklyn abode (which also serves as a studio space) to see where the ideas behind her collection take shape.
Exposed brick, industrial elements and minimal furnishings combine to form the perfect backdrop for Zuckerman’s detailed black and white paintings, works of art that live alongside her jewelry as a testament to the methodical research and conceptual artistry behind Eva Fehren.
* * *
“As you can see, my art and my jewelry are very interconnected. I mix them all together to create balance for myself… and I do the same with my personal style. I always like to wear something textured or “ruined” (like these paint-splattered leggings that I wear when I paint) to offset my jewelry or a sophisticated piece of clothing. It’s not about what you wear–it’s about how you wear it. There has always been something very cool to me about a woman who can wear a beat-up t-shirt or a ripped pair of jeans with handful of fine jewelry. It’s an interesting juxtaposition that resonates with me.”
“The X ring was the first piece that I designed as part of the collection years ago. I really wanted to make something that felt perfect to me. When I finally mastered this design, I felt I was really ready to launch the collection. This ring is perfectly symmetrical, and can be worn in any direction. It remains a symbol of my design aesthetic and my brand, even as the collection evolves and grows.”
“I think the X is such a simple classic shape. It is easy to wear multiple and mix and match them with the other geometric rings in the collection. I’m finding that my customers are collecting two, three or four X rings to wear on every finger. To me, the X is a perfect shape.”
“This zigzag shape has become a staple in my collection. It was originally inspired by the gears in a machine or the teeth of a zipper. I love the zipper bands because they stack and fit together perfectly. The motif adds sharpness and edge to a classic shape.”
“I try to create pieces of jewelry that can be stacked and worn together. I want the woman who buys my jewelry to be able to create her own story with it, and even to integrate Eva Fehren pieces with other pieces that they own. I love piling up my earrings to create a unique landscape with the jewelry. It’s important to me that the jewelry looks cool, young and a bit tough, while still being extremely high quality and classic enough that the styles will remain relevant for years to come. These dagger earrings are just that for me–very delicate and feminine but still a little mean.”
“I’m very inspired by my native New York City and Art Deco art, architecture and jewelry. The Chrysler necklace is my homage to New York City. I am so inspired by the beauty of this city and also the grit and roughness of it. This necklace captures that same spirit for me, with the sharp angular facets of the black diamond beads alongside the sleek rose gold spikes.”
“The Arrow bracelet is one of my absolute favorites in the collection. I love a hinged bracelet, and this was my take on the classic diamond bangle. We set the diamonds traditionally, as well as upside down. I often use inverted diamonds–it feels like an irreverent treatment of a traditional, high-end material.”
“I love this photo. The Mini X pendant, the X necklace, the Saber pendant, the Apex and the Propeller necklace are all layered over one of my recent paintings. Painting and jewelry are two sides of the same coin of who I am as a person; one always informs the other and both pursuits are always evolving side by side.”