Real Clothes, Reinterpreted: Jay Bell on Fall 2012 Menswear

Earlier this month, Jay Bell, Barneys VP of men’s designer collections, gave us the lowdown on color in his report on the Fall 2012 menswear collections. Today we hear the rest of the story, as Jay highlights some key trends of the season.

* * *

It’s October (officially fall!), and we have fashionable tricks and treats just for you! Work a totally new look, or indulge in a few key pieces. Whatever you fancy, the month encourages a little fashion rebellion–and subversive details are very apropos:

clockwise from top: Jil Sander, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexandre Plokhov, Givenchy, Alexandre Plokhov, Thom Browne, Christian Louboutin (call 212-826-8900 to order), Thom Browne

Civilian Life: Break rank, and march to a different beat. Napoleonic influences lend an individualistic edge to the season’s hottest uniform-inspired looks.

Gucci (call 212-826-8900 to order), Yohji Yamamoto, Balmain, Dries van Noten

For the more traditionally inclined, ton sur ton (“tone on tone” ) dressing borrows the standard principle of uniform dressing: matching color or fabric for tops and bottoms, the coordinated effect creates a reassuringly “in charge” point of view.

Tim Coppens, BASCO, Martin Margiela, Pringle of Scotland

A Luxurious Discretion. Dispirited by the pretensions of “man fur,” some customers will opt for fall’s sumptuous shearlings. A more discreet and diplomatic alternative, the new skins are super light and very supple, executed to mimic your favorite cashmere cardigan.

Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Tim Coppens, Bottega Veneta

And To Top it Off… Last season’s fedora remains perched atop some of the best-dressed heads around. But fall introduces cable knit turbans (from the twisted minds of Steven & Daniel at Duckie Brown), exaggerated newsboy caps (executed with perfection by Christopher Bailey at Burberry Prorsum), knit “helmets” (from forward-thinking Raf Simons) and feather-adorned molded caps by the trend-setting duo Lucas and Alber at Lanvin.

Burberry Prorsum, Raf Simons, Lanvin, Duckie Brown