Fashion Week is more than just what goes down the catwalk. Each season, Barneys buyers view quite a few collections that you won’t see all over your Instagram feed.
Some designers have taken part in the past and opted out this time around; others are simply new to the scene. Either way, these “no shows” serve as a helpful reminder that it always comes down to the clothes themselves rather than the spectacle. (That’s not to say we don’t love a good fashion show!)
We asked Fashion Director Tomoko Ogura which NYFW collections that didn’t make it down the runway she was most excited about for AW 14. Below are her faves, along with some behind-the-scenes showroom pics. Keep an eye out for these designers gracing the floors of Barneys come fall.
R13 makes jeans we want to live in. A visit to their showroom had all the inventive denim pieces we have come to expect from the brand–and then some. Ogura says, “The collection continues to be distinct, always with an urban edge. It’s relaxed but elevated. The development of all the styles that go back to the jeans is exciting.” We couldn’t agree more!
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Kimberly Wesson and Aimee Cho’s unisex collection, 1.61, was inspired by Joy Division’s Ian Curtis and the barren landscape of post-punk Northern England that gave birth to an era of artistic brilliance. “What some see as bleak, I see as powerful,” says Wesson. She cites Curtis’s “double edge of talent and tragedy” as an especially powerful influence. We can’t wait to sport their loosely tailored pants as an alternative to jeans, paired with a classic button down. And no need to hold out until fall to add some 1.61 to your wardrobe. Spring 2014 will hit the racks at Barneys any day.
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Wayne Lee’s always feminine and sophisticated line, Wayne, has been a Barneys favorite for years. Lee took inspiration from sound-proofing material–both the fuzzy, spongy material itself and its function of “blocking out the noise” in a mediative sense. The result is a kind of inner peace, or “a crystal shining brightly at the end of my journey” as Lee puts it. The concept manifests itself in the collection’s textural details, ranging from faux fur to cozy grey flannels and nubby camel coatings, as well as crystal embellishments on collars, necklines and pockets.
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Sea‘s Sean Monahan and Monica Paolini have done it again. Their sporty yet feminine collection was inspired by flannel shirts they wore as kids in upstate New York. “We ended up using plaid in a few different textures and groups,” say the designers. “Favorites are the mohair cut and sew knits.” The fabrics, according to Monahan and Paolini, are sourced from Samuel Tweed in Yorkshire and produced entirely in the UK.
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PAS DE CALAIS
Pas de Calais wowed us with a beautiful and intimate presentation this fashion week and will be a debut collection for Barneys come Fall. Designer Yukari Suda says of the line, “The Pas de Calais woman has her own style, her own identity. She knows what she likes.” A trip to the showroom introduced us to voluminous pants and luxe jackets in a palette of rich neutrals, and endless possibilities for layering these pieces with watercolor print scarves and textural knitwear come autumn.