Pictured: Dries Van Noten, Officine Generale, Hood By Air.
If there’s something that you can count on Barneys for, it’s reliably staying ahead of the curve. Our Fashion Office and buying teams are relentlessly in pursuit of the new, the cool, the fresh, the authentic—the future. In fact, that’s exactly why our menswear team is on the ground in Florence at Pitti Uomo this very moment. (Follow @BarneysMan for their field notes.)
We asked this group of dapper gents, plus a handful of stylish ladies, the impossible: to choose a standout collection for the spring season. It was a mildly torturous process (they are, of course, enamored with all Barneys designers), but eventually they yielded. Below, you’ll find ten ones to watch in 2015.
LOEWE
“How do you bring a luxury brand founded in 1846 into 2015? Tap J.W. Anderson to be creative director, of course. His intellectual yet contemporary approach to making the Spanish house of Loewe relevant today is intriguing. Thorough research of the brand heritage revealed a nice surprise to the designer: the modern architect Javier Carvajal had a similar task of re-inventing the label in the mid-20th century. Carvajal was able to infuse the brand with sleek modernism while also retaining the integrity of Spanish culture. In addition to designing the Spanish Pavilion for the 1964-65 World’s Fair, Carvajal also designed Loewe’s stores and factory. These are beautiful buildings that reflect a timeless, modern aesthetic, inside and out. J.W. Anderson infuses his passion and appreciation for Carvajal’s modernism in his vision for the Loewe brand today.”
—Tom Kalenderian
EVP/GMM, Men’s & Chelsea Passage
SAINT LAURENT
“I recall Hedi Slimane’s Spring 2015 show for Saint Laurent vividly: The collection strutted by at an exciting pace like the building crescendo of an upbeat, hypnotic rock tune. And the more the beat played on—as soundtrack for the remix of “royal rock” looks racing down the runway—the more entranced I became. By the show’s climatic end, I was fully mesmerized with the song’s chorus and, more importantly, the collection’s clothes! Vintage suede ponchos, paisley printed tunics, and leather rocker pants never looked so right, so now, as with Hedi’s masterful manipulation of perfecting the familiar into something so desirably new. This is Hedi’s world—and we’re just grooving to it.”
—Jay Bell, VP/DMM
Men’s Designer Collections & Men’s Contemporary Sportswear
Hood By Air
“Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air is certainly one to watch, having won one of two special LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prizes. His three-pronged Spring presentation began on the runways of New York, flowed into an installation for a presentation in Paris, then concluded with a dynamic performance and party at the Museum of Modern Art. Now, he’s been named a special guest at January’s Pitti Uomo. Shayne continues to evolve as a designer, taking cues from youth culture and blurring the lines between fashion and fearlessness.”
—Wanda Colon
VP/DMM, Men’s Developing Designer
Gianvito Rossi
“Gianvito Rossi sneakers continue to be a must-have for all women, and when Gianvito Rossi presented to us his first men’s collection, we were immediately drawn to the clean silhouettes reflecting an approach of understated luxury. The chic designs will complement anyone’s shoe closet and will become the go-to sneaker for many seasons to come.”
—Melissa Gallagher
VP/DMM, Men’s Footwear and Accessories
SVEVO
“From renown knitwear specialist Svevo comes the brand’s first foray into the necktie world. The team from Parma, Italy, has produced an extremely tight, double-knit ottoman weave in a patented fine-gauge silk, offered in black and navy for a formal look or colors like orange, teal, and berry for a bit more fun. Look out for fine-gauge silk sweaters later in the spring.”
—John Totolis
VP/DMM, Men’s Tailored Clothing and Furnishings
BALMAIN
“A lot of brands these days offer biker denim, but in terms of style and workmanship, Balmain‘s still can’t be beat. And with the variety of new details and treatments proposed each season, there’s always a reason to buy one more.”
—Young-Su Kim
Senior Buyer, Men’s Designer Collections
Boglioli
“Boglioli, well-known for modernizing the washed cashmere jacket and developing it into a true staple of the luxury lexicon, rounds out its Spring 2015 RTW offering with a slim suit silhouette designed for today’s tailored client. Creative director Jay Vosoghi maintains the cool comfort of the brand with a semi-shouldered garment that blends heritage Italian tailoring with the sharp aesthetics of modern menswear. The collection creates interest through texture and tone as opposed to bold color and big pattern and thus, speaks more to the dapper than it does to the dandy. For those inclined to stand out through subtlety, your new suit has arrived.”
—Alex Holmes
Buyer, Men’s Tailored Clothing
Luciano Barbera
“Luciano Barbera has no interest in designing for Tumblr’s menswear hashtag, yet both his tailored and sportswear collections are of the moment and for the moment. Every piece is a tactile experience as much as it is a visual one, invoking a sense of softness and wearability unlike any other garment.”
—Nick McLish
Buyer, Men’s Luxury Sportswear
Officine Generale
“This is exactly what I am looking for: clothes that slide into a wardrobe, or personal style, with nary a whisper—the kind of things that aren’t noticed until maybe the second or third glance and then, “hey, that’s a great coat, man!” It seems to me this is what Pierre Mahéo is seeking to achieve with Officine Generale, and he succeeds with flying colors.”
—Drew Caldwell
Buyer, Contemporary Collections
Dries Van Noten
“Dries never ceases to draw inspiration from a myriad of sources (as evidenced from his exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs), and his Spring collection was no different. Inspired by Russian ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, the collection is decadent and romantic, for the more ‘sensual man,’ perfectly represented in prints by Richard Haines. Satin robes, silk sportcoats, and printed tops in rich tones and relaxed fits create a refreshing and easy feel for an otherwise stark winter that looms ahead.”
—Julien Decanali
Associate Buyer, Men’s Designer Collections
