Gianvito Rossi has the ability to create elegant, modern footwear that celebrates and enhances the wearer, without ever feeling forced or over the top. For Pre-Fall ’16, he uses sumptuous suede, geometric designs, and new silhouettes—including rounded toes and chunkier heels—to create a collection that celebrates understated glamour with an edge.
“There’s a strong part of each collection that’s a constant evolution and doesn’t relate to a specific trend,” Rossi explained on a call from Rome. “Then, every season, there’s the addition of a specific idea to play with. It’s a combination of the two aspects.” This season that idea was subtle military influences translated in an elegant and subtle way that stays true to the brand’s signatures.
Below, Rossi tells us more about the collection and his approach to designing shoes, which he describes as “the punctuation or pedestal for a woman.”
The Window: How does this collection retain your signature aesthetic while introducing new codes?
Gianvito Rossi: The signature part is very much the idea of the stiletto, the pointy toe, and the simple lines. These are features that I really love—I think they are the best ways to highlight the feminine silhouette. These aspects of the collection are constantly evolving, as they channel the trends of the season. In terms of new proportions and silhouettes, we’ve introduced a new round toe with a thicker heel. It was really important that it still feel refined and sophisticated.
Do you think of a woman’s whole look when you’re designing?
I always consider the fact that, at the end of the day, the shoe is worn by a woman who is going somewhere wearing an outfit—it’s part of a complete picture. It’s not good to think of the shoe as an object itself. It’s an accessory, which means it’s an accent. The world is seeing you, not seeing the shoes on their own. Shoes are part of an outfit, and—most importantly to me—part of a woman’s silhouette.
What about the women—do you have a specific woman or women in mind?
I don’t think of a specific woman. I think of a general idea and feeling. I think it’s great to travel and meet new, different people—it maintains an evolving vision. It’s more interesting not to have a fixed icon, but an idea of a woman that can grow and change.
What’s currently inspiring you?
I’ve been exploring colors like reds, greens, and yellows. I love black, but using a touch of color can offer a nice something extra. I recently went to the Caribbean, and the brilliant colors there may start to inspire my work.
What is your favorite creative outlet or hobby outside of work?
When I have time, I like to travel by bike, boat, or car—the idea of moving and driving away somewhere by myself is something that inspires me. Choose your own direction and go!