We cornered CO-OP Fashion Director Tomoko Ogura about, oh, three minutes after she stepped off the plane from the European shows. Known for her spot-on style and keen eye, who better to tell us all about what’s new and fabulous for fall? Below, she gives us the scoop on everything she saw and loved during Fashion Week.
MOST CREATIVE PRESENTATION… Kenzo was such a fun show. The colorful university space was full of energy, great clothes and delicious cupcakes made by Magnolia Bakery chefs who were flown in for the occasion. The pink and morning-glory-blue frosting on the cupcakes even matched the colors of the floor.
MOST MEMORABLE TREND… Puffer jackets! I cannot stand being cold in the winter so seeing an emergence of stylish, warm puffer jackets made me happy. To name a few I loved: Isabel Marant‘s puffy baseball jacket with flower embroidery; Girl. by Band of Outsiders‘ cherry-print puffy vest; Alexander Wang‘s leather puffer vest; Acne‘s quilted puffer jacket; and Wayne‘s tweed puffy jacket. And I’d like to give a special shout-out to the Carven puffer-sleeve duffle coat, which immediately caught my attention. If I were a guy, that would certainly be on my wish list!
DESIGNERS TO WATCH… There’s something very exciting happening across the Atlantic right now. Four CO-OP brands in particular—Isabel Marant, Carven, Acne and Kenzo (which we introduced for spring)—are developing very strong, individual voices.
This collection took inspiration from the different rooms and belongings in a home, from bathroom tiles to a bowl of berries or potpourri to tapestries to marble floors. Amazingly, the marble print was designed by an artist with whom Kenzo Takada himself worked 30 years ago, but it was never produced. As in the spring collection, there was an abundance of color: red, burgundy, yellow, mustard, green, purple, fuchsia, teal and cobalt blue. P.S. If anyone can make a logo sweatshirt look cute, they can.
Her collections often incorporate elements from the American West, but this show took on a full-blown French cowboy theme. The show was focused and impactful in narrative with a very apparent Isabel attitude. She worked with a color palette of pink, red, burgundy and blue. Western shirt detailing appeared in several different variations and colors, our favorite being the pullover sweatshirt and puffy baseball jacket. Suede fringe, cowboy boots, star-studded leather pants, antique lace dresses and military coats rounded out the Western story. The embroidered jeans and boots will be a sure hit.
This was a beautiful collection that speaks to the CO-OP girl who wants to look chic. Drawing inspiration from the Renaissance, Guillaume showed a stained-glass-window print, contrasted collars, crushed velvet, A-line hems and a bright red hue that added to the overall religious feeling of the collection. He also incorporated keyhole slits, laser-cut dresses and tops, and shorter lengths—all of which contributed to the modestly provocative look that has come to define the brand.
Since the first time they showed in London at Lord Snowdon’s residence, Acne has become quite the spectacle during London Fashion Week. The venue is now packed and feels like a big party with great energy. The various combinations of green were visually enticing: pastel green, lime green, forest green, military green… The last two translated particularly well in the outerwear pieces paired with leather pants.