“Like many men who love clothes, fall is my favorite time to dress,” explains David Coggins. Fitting, then, that his new book, Men and Style: Essays, Interviews and Considerations, launches at his favorite time of year. “It’s because of textures like tweed, houndstooth, and corduroy. Suede shoes and well-made boots make a reappearance, as do heavy sportcoats and vivid scarves. And the colors—olive, burgundy, muted grey, and burnt orange. I even like brown—this is our time to be drab and be happy about it!”
Drab is hardly the word we’d use to describe Coggins, who illuminates subjects ranging from travel to tailoring for publications like Wall Street Journal and Conde Nast Traveler. A quick flick through his Instagram account reveals sunny corners of his rug-envy-inducing West Village apartment, nostalgic images of his family’s rustic Midwestern log cabin, trout fishing expeditions on foggy lakes, and inspiring travel snaps ranging from Italian villas to Japanese forests—all of which are documented through the lens of someone with inherent personal style. Men and Style turns that lens on the men in Coggins’ life that he most admires—more than 65 of them—interviewing them about everything from their fathers’ influence to their most unfortunate prom tuxedos.
As he settles into his favorite season—extra busy this time around thanks to the release of his book—Coggins breaks down his approach to getting dressed with three go-to outfits sure to be on rotation throughout the next few weeks.
1. CULTURAL CONNOISSEUR
“New York’s cultural institutions are back in season, so you need a suit that’s as at home on Fifth Avenue at the Met as it is on Bowery at the New Museum. This Paul Smith suit has the right proportions—it’s concise without being fussy. Wear it with a burgundy Luciano Barbera shirt, buttoned to the top if you feel the need for control, or undo a few if you’re feeling rakish. Add Drake’s pocket square for interest. You could be an expert on Joy Division or Mexican modernist architecture. Try a pair of Soloviere Belgian loafers that veer toward dandyism and return to a position of strength.”
2. PATTERN PLAY
“A good fall sportcoat is so inviting that it makes strangers want to touch it. If it has a windowpane pattern, that’s even better. This Ralph Lauren Purple Label jacket is a strong option. Then, ratchet up the pattern game with a Zegna striped shirt and Bigi tie (even more stripes). Some grey flannel trousers should be your seasonal staple, and Incotex sets the standard. I’ve never known a stylish woman who doesn’t judge a man based on his shoes, so consider a pair of wingtips from Alden, America’s great shoemaker. These look just as home shined or scuffed and communicate your intentions.”
3. IF THE BOOT FITS
“Boglioli has a devoted following because they’re experts at something that should be simple but isn’t: making an unstructured sportcoat. It’s at home everywhere you go, especially with a cashmere turtleneck from Massimo Alba. Now, you’re ready to discuss your favorite Eric Rohmer film with a sense of authority. Just add olive drill trousers from Incotex, a pocket square, and a light scarf to brighten things up. It’s fall, after all, so you deserve a good pair of boots. Crockett & Jones makes these classics, called Islay, named for the island that’s home of Laphroaig, my favorite scotch, and quite possibly the greatest thing that comes in a bottle. That’s the spirit!”