“It’s about a new simplicity,” says designer Davide Marello of his vision for the Italian tailoring house Boglioli, where he was appointment the brand’s first-ever creative director earlier this year. “I want to go back to a true elegance and create an interplay of softness and structure, a narrative. I’ll try to add a bit of romanticism, and every season I’ll reveal more about this man, who wants to be beautiful but really comfortable at the same time.”
Having reshaped modern menswear as a formalwear designer at both Giorgio Armani and Gucci, Marello approached his appointment at Boglioli with both a clear vision for its future and a respect of the house codes and DNA that have made the brand so iconic since its founding as a family-run business more than a hundred years ago. The Window caught up with Marello backstage as he prepared to send his Fall 2017 collection down the runway this past spring.
Already renowned for extremely soft, garment-dyed sport coats and a rigorous approach to traditional, lightweight tailoring, Boglioli is primed for Marello’s exacting eye. “I’m designing collections that emphasize the effortless of our clients, releasing them from the strict boundaries of classical tailoring,” he says. “I think about modern men with a sense of freedom and want to address the real needs of their daily lives.”
This shift to a more casual way of dressing, Marello notes, is happening across all brands today. “Modern men are less conservative and more playful, without being scared of losing their masculinity,” he says. “Contemporary menswear is becoming less stiff than in the past. The ease of sportswear is becoming stronger, but of course there are still some fields where a proper, traditional suit is still required. The secret of Boglioli’s success is about walking the line between the two.”
That line is one Marello has been navigating himself for years, and he’s bringing that sense of his own personal style to the collections he’s creating for the storied brand. Speaking of the new opportunities he’s been embracing with Boglioli, the designer says, “I feel lucky because my personal aesthetic is very close to the spirit of Boglioli, so the creative process is like imagining my dream wardrobe.”