For Ana Khouri, designing jewelry isn’t about pushing out seasonal collections. It’s about building on the DNA of her brand, which always goes back to her artistic training as a sculptor and her appreciation of the female form. “My story doesn’t change so much collection to collection—but it’s never just one thing that inspires me,” Khouri tells us from her Paris showroom, surrounded by her latest pieces. “It’s always about molding pieces to the body and seeing them come alive. It’s anatomic and about enhancing a women’s beauty. It’s finding new forms that evolve this same concept.”

ana khouri
Marina Larroudé and Ana Khouri at Khouri’s Paris showroom space.
ANA KHOURI Lily Earring

For this reason, Khouri only presents once a year, and the way in which she titles and displays her work is key to understanding her evolution. This season’s compilation is called Ethereal, and she’s created her own acrylic displays to showcase her designs. “For me, it makes sense to make these sculptures and have them as an extension of my work—it connects the dots of what these new pieces are about.”

Khouri tries on an emerald variation of the Lily earring.

Her newest piece is the Lily, an earring that Barneys is the first to carry. The sinuous shape continues her theme of molding to the natural curves of the wearer, but the style itself is new in shape and form. “It has more empty space than any of my other pieces, which creates a dialogue among the woman wearing it, the piece itself, and the place she’s in. The circle goes from under to above her ear—it’s a continuation of my previous work but a new way of seeing things.”

ana khouri

Barneys Fashion Director Marina Larroudé tries on pieces in the showroom.

For Khouri, the pieces really come alive when worn, offering an emotional aspect to her work, and hearing her discuss the feelings her jewelry conjures is poetic. “I want my designs to evoke their connection to space—its vastness, its majesty, and its superlative form,” she says. “Jewelry is my medium and to make it, by nature, is to be mindful of its techniques and the value of such fine materials. But this is secondary—the feeling I want to impart is one of radiance, in every sense, and that’s my focus.”

Shop The Story